Kenneth Michael Guitars est.1978

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KMG "Success Kit" Top Assembly Part Two

Prepare the work board by taping four contour cauls delineated by the “X” brace. Instructions regarding how to fabricate the clamping cauls can be found HERE.

The bridge plate was glued to the top first so it can be used as an anchor point. Start the brace gluing sequence with the “X” that has the notch facing UP. The other “X” brace is used as a locator but is not glued at this time. As always check to make sure you clamping set-up will work doing a dry run. When satisfied, apply glue, position the brace, and duplicate the dry run set-up. Make sure the brace is tight against the bridge plate. Clean up the glue squeeze out as you work. I let it set a little time to prevent smearing.

We use “Titebond”  30 minutes is plenty of clamp time. After 30 minutes apply glue to the other “X” brace, including the intersection joint. Clamp in place using the same precautions as above.

The bass bars can be glued in place next. Note the use of a piece of cut off material as a caul to assure perfect contact on the inside end of the base bar

Each of the four ¼”x ¼” side braces requires a custom fit. As with all the bracing the grain runs perpendicular to the top.

Cut all four braces to approximate length. Mark the angle of each where it meets the “X” brace. Identify each brace and the corresponding location on the top

Mark the ends of each side brace at the perimeter. These braces extend shy of the kerfing perimeter line.

Mark the center of each brace. Note how each is numbered and that the location of the number is used as a reference to the inside and outside ends.

From the centerline, saw, sand or chisel a gentle contour to the OUTSIDE end of each brace. DO NOT CONTOUR THE INSIDE AT THIS TIME. We need to keep that surface flat to facilitate clamping.

Glue all the side braces in the proper locations – follow the 30-minute dry time rule for clamp re-positioning.

The shoulder brace is almost flat on the edge that is glued, there is a subtle taper at both ends to blend with the contour of the “X” bracing.

The ends of the shoulder brace extends through to the outside of the rim so they need to be thinned to about 1/16”.

Mark the centerline of the top, this will be used as a reference to locate the shoulder brace, its important that the truss rod access hole lines up perfectly.

Test the clamping arrangement, if satisfied glue the shoulder brace in place. Clean up the glue squeeze as usual.

Prepare the 1/8” x 1” brace using the dimension is the photo below. The glued side is flat; sand a gentle radius on all the edges of the opposite side/upside.

Align this brace with the layout and centerline; check clamping arrangement, than complete gluing operation.

The inside scallop/contour can now be carved on the four side braces. A piece of veneer or shim stock is used to prevent damage to “X” brace. Use a razor saw to cut a slot on the ends of the side braces. The veneer can then be wedge against the “X” brace.

Use a chisel to shear away the brace to form the inside taper. Always hold the cutting edge at angle to prevent taking too deep of cut and gouging the wood

The long legs of the “X” braces extend though to the outside of the rim. Note that they are very thin in this area. This tiny lip is primarily to form a location tab when gluing the top to the rim. Chisel and sand these ends to form a smooth transition back to the scallop peak.

Some manufacturers and custom builders choose to leave the braces flat on top, which is OK. I prefer to chamfer and radius all the edges and peaks. The following photos illustrate the basic steps. Use a chisel and sand paper finishing with 220 grit.

Drawing a centerline on the brace will aide in keeping the radius and chamfers uniform.

A small block plane can be used to round over the shoulder brace, followed with the progressive sand papers.

Set a small block of wood on the sound hole reinforcement location. Place the 1/16” reinforcement material along side the block. Use a straight edge to line up and mark the brace intersection points. Repeat this process for all three reinforcements.

Make clamping cauls thick enough to get the cam clamps clear of the all the bracing. Test your clamping arrangement, than glue the reinforcements in place.

Inspect the top for glue squeeze, double check the sanding job and finally proudly sign your work.

Preparing the top and the rim for gluing

Part 3