that rivals those used in full-scale production shops.
clamping caul. All parts are precision machined on our CNC equipment.
METHODICALLY AND YOU WILL BE REWARDED WITH A PRECISION ASSEMBLY
MOLD.
nails and plenty of TiteBond glue. Begin
by placing several of the mold slats in one
of the profile forms DO NOT GLUE at this
time.
apply glue to the corresponding slots
in the matching profile form. Position
the profile form to the slats. The slats
must be even or slightly proud of the
profile forms (SEE PICTURE BELOW)
any overhang will be trimmed later in
the assembly process.
sure the assembly is square to the bench
top and that the top and bottom profile forms
are aligned. Use two 1 1/2" finish nails in
each slat. Drive one nail straight and angle
the second nail to create a slight wedge
effect.
and nailing the top form. Note that the end slats are packaged separate and are
slightly narrower than the others --- usually four end slats per mold side. Two at
each end per mold section.
slats are flush and DO NOT GO
BEYOND THE ENDS OF THE
PROFILE FORMS doing so would
change the size of the mold inside
dimensions.
matching top and bottom profile form.
before – check alignment and square frequently. Repeat the above
process for the other half of the mold
is to mate the two mold sections using the provided splice plates. Use clamps and
bar clamps to align the two halves. The centerlines of the plates will match the
centerlines of the mold. PRE-DRILL all the holes than secure the plates with the 2”
screws.
Using a ¼” wood chisel and sanding drum,
shave the slats even with the profile form.
Start at the outer edge; take shallow cuts,
work toward the center. Work from the top
and bottom of the mold. Keep the chisel at a
slight angle to the slat; this will keep the
chisel from digging into the wood. For the
final cuts place the chisel directly on the
profile form and slide it across the slat –
again from the top and bottom side of the
mold. ITS BEST TO LEAVE THE END
SLATS UNTIL LAST.
fabricated from a 6” piece of 2" dia.PVC
pipe. Using 3M Super 77 adhesive, glue
a 3 ½” piece of 80 grit sandpaper to the
center of the pipe. Wrap both end of the
pipe with duct tape along side the sand
paper NOT ON TOP OF THE PAPER use
enough layers so the tape is even with
the grit on the sand paper. The tape will
act as a bearing surface guided by the
profile form – the high spots on the slats
will be sanded flush
and bottom of the mold should have been
defined, the rim should always be placed
in the mold in the same orientation.
individual pieces.
positions one for gluing the top plate and a
different location when gluing the back. Start
with back plate gluing position.
is almost flat, set the rim in the mold 1 ½”
from the profile form surface around the
entire perimeter.
secure in place with the waist clamp
RE-CHECK ALIGNMENT!!
edge --- center the hole on the slat
and drill an 1/8” pilot hole.
with a #6 x 1” pan head screw.
mold style, Its best not to place a leveler on the inner most waist slat.
the same levelers are use in a different
position. Unscrew all the levelers and set
aside. Slide the top edge of the rim ¾”
above the surface of the profile form --- a
small block of wood works good as a gage.
Note that the levelers will follow the contour of the back and thus completely support the rim
assembly when gluing on the top plate
glue and aligning the perimeter reinforcement with edge of the 1/8” profiled
layer. The more clamps the better.
centerline 1 ¼” from the inside.
pilots as reference. Position the caul to the mold using the mark at the upper
bout and the centerlines to locate --- clamp in place
into the mold – use the holes in the caul
as guides all the way around.
the opposite side of the mold. After
that is completed the holes in the
clamping caul must be drilled slightly over
size using a 3/16” drill bit. This will allow
for minor adjustments when actually
gluing the top or back to the rim
forward – the levelers are secured in the
top or back locations that we pre-drilled
the top or back is placed on the rim,
pinned, taped or rubber banded to keep it
from moving out of position. The caul is
placed on top with the recess down to
allow for the contour of the top or back.
Fasten with 2 ½” screws. Final
tightening should be done by hand.
pressure directly to the perimeter of the rim and also allows clearance for the
top/back contour
