possible using CNC technology. Like many others over the years we have struggled with
accurate bridge placement . String, rulers, straight edges, tape, triangles and a bit of luck
just does not get it done in an efficient manner. We recognized the need for improvement
and that led to the development of this tool. Each scale length requires a proprietary
“Bridge Setter” however; the process that follows is the same for all. The “Bridge Setter”
coordinates the critical locations and dimensions that need to be considered for accurate
bridge placement. As prescribed by many authorities the “Bridge Setter” places the
saddle string break point with 5/64” compensation at the 1st or “E” string. Note that after
installation the bridge saddle will need the normal customization to achieve proper
intonation based on strings, action etc. .
pin holes.
locating the saddle on the pin and the bridge centerline to the “V” notch. Hold the
bridge in position, move the cross slide up against the bridge – this will square the
bridge. Tighten the wing nuts. Make sure the retaining straps are not pinched
between the cross slide and the bridge. We have used a clamp to keep the bridge
in position while adjusting the cross slide -- it is a matter of preference
bridge and secure the Velcro
fasteners. Make sure not to disturb the
bridge centerline “V” notch relationship.
reference pattern based on scale length.
Instead of trying to establish location by
manipulating various pieces of tape, etc.
the “Bridge Setter” locks onto the fret
board using multiple locations as check
points.
three holes at the 12th fret as a
guide, then secure the “Bridge Setter”
with the two retaining straps with Velcro
fasteners. The tool may not engage every
fret up the board. Also, the bridge will be
slightly raised off the top by the retaining
straps. Neither of these conditions are a
matter of concern.
common Martin fingerboard width and in
most cases will line up perfectly along the
edges. If your FB is a different width,
equalize the tool between the edges and
also match the centerline of the bridge
with the centerline of the top.
with pilot holes in the saddle area as well
as the two outside bridge pin holes result
in very precise positioning when gluing
the bridge in place after finishing. We use
a #54 drill in the saddle slot and a 3/16”
drill through the outside pin holes. #18
brads work well as locating pins in the
saddle area holes. The #54 drill and #18
brads are included with the package.
by wrapping a couple of loops of masking tape around the neck and “Bridge
Setter”. The next step will be less nerve racking now than in the past since you
know the bridge is in the right place --- go ahead and drill the four pilot holes.
paint mask marks. When its time to glue the bridge to the top take a look at our
“Super Simple KMG bridge clamp”
