| Kenneth Michael Guitars est.1978 |
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| CONTACT US |
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| Side bending "low cost" set up |
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| Our bending station is fairly extensive but, on occasion (not very often) we need to perform some hand bending operations. Mostly bindings and maybe re-bends on sides with tight waist curves. Our set-up could hardly be simpler. |
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| The main bender is a 15” section of 3” diameter copper pipe we purchased at a local hardware store, aluminum would work equally well. The pipe is fastened to a piece of 2 X 4 using metal utility strapping and ¼’ nut and bolts. A piece of non-flammable clothe in placed under the pipe. The material we use is from a pad used by plumbers to protect framing members etc. when soldering joints. |
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| To capture the heat a piece of aluminum foil is crumpled up and stuffed into the end of the pipe. |
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| The heat source is a propane torch lined up in the center of the pipe. I just set it on one of our miter clamps. A piece of wood could be used, note that the nozzle end should be raised slightly |
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| Our binding touch up bender is made from a “stained glass artist’s” soldering iron. This one is 100 watts -- a little more power (200 watts)would be better. It was purchased off Ebay for $10 including shipping |
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| The bender is made of a short length of ½ “ copper pipe, a ½” to 1 ¼” coupling and a piece of #12 copper wire |
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| Flats are sanded on the soldering iron handle on both sides so it can be clamped to the bench securely. |
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| Slip the ½” pipe into the coupling and drill a hole large enough for the #12 wire to slid through. Loosen the two screws that secure the soldering iron tip |
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| Flatten the end of the ½” pipe so it is crimped onto the soldering iron tip and will not rotate. |
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| Thread the wire through the holes --- wrap it around the tip retaining screws. Tighten the screws. Wrap the wire around the assembly than trim the ends |
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| Please understand that both these tools can cause severe burns and if left unattended they are CAPABLE OF CAUSING FIRES |
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